I am asked to share many things on the blog, but the number one request
(by a large margin) is "how do you make such neat tiny stitches?"
In the past I've shown a couple of different backstitch tutorials but this time I'm going to take you through some 'extras' and hopefully this will be the tutorial I can refer future blog readers to when they email and ask that same 'how' question.
The design I've prepared, "Sew Sweet Roses", is a tiny one because my latest request was from Glenda, and she specifically asked about stitching the small Shabby Roses blocks in the Churn Dash Stitchalong I'm currently hosting.
Start by downloading the free pattern sheet
HERE and grab yourself a piece of solid quilting fabric to trace it onto, but don't trace it yet!
Look at the pattern, and look at what I've traced...
Can you see that I have not traced the leaves?
When you are preparing a design that includes sewing lazy daisy stitches don't trace the whole shape, only place a small dot where they start and where they finish. This will prevent tracing lines peeping through as often happens with a lazy daisy.
Fuse a piece of fabric stabiliser behind the block. My favourites are Weaveline, Staflix or Whisperweft.
Weaveline and Staflix are as thin as tissue paper but are actually a fine fabric.
Whisperweft is woven, and is the stabiliser I chose to use when putting together this tutorial...
Gather what you need to begin stitching the block.
I use a size 9 embroidery needle, and never use a hoop. Instead, I rest the base of my palms on a small 'sewing cushion'...
Thread your needle with two strands of embroidery cotton. (I've used some DMC threads for this stitchery)
We'll start with the vase. Bring your needle up from behind the block and out along the traced line...
This is what it looks like behind the block. No knot, and just a little tail of thread. You can easily hold this tail in place with one of the fingers on your non-stitching hand...
To begin the backstitch, do exactly what the name suggests. Take you needle back, behind the exit hole of your first thread, and push through to the back of the fabric, and up again through the front, just ahead of the original stitch. Keep your other hand securing that little tail at the back for a moment longer...
Now you're going to bring the needle 'back' again. This time push it into the original stitch hole. When you do this, you automatically secure that tail of thread behind the block. Don't tug hard on the thread, it only needs a gentle pull to sit flat...
When you've stitched the full vase make a small knot behind and trim your thread.
Now we'll stitch the small shabby roses.
Again using two strands of thread, begin your rose the same way you began the vase, and always begin stitching a shabby rose from the centre...
NOTE: The key to a neat circle of roses is to keep your stitches very small, but I'll share more about that at the end.
Continue around the rose...there are 18 tiny stitches in my sweet little rose!
When you finish a rose, secure the thread behind the block before you move on to the next rose. Never carry your thread across from one shape to the next.
Now I'll show you how to make a lazy daisy leaf around the roses.
Secure the green thread on the back of a previously stitched shape, one that is closest to your leaf...
There are two dots marked on your fabric for each leaf. Choose your leaf, and bring the needle and thread up through the dot closest to the rose. I'll begin with the leaf at the top right of the vase...
Bring the thread across the front of the needle entry hole to create a circle of thread around the needle. Push the needle back through the same exit hole...
...and out again, but this time through the other marked dot for this leaf.
Let the needle exit above the circle of thread, and gently pull the thread to reduce the circle to an elongated daisy petal shape...
Bring your needle over the front of the lazy daisy stitch and push it through to the back of the fabric. Secure the thread in a knot behind and trim the end.
Stitch the rest of the roses and leaves.
Add some extra running stitches inside the vase if you like...
Now about those tiny stitches.
Do you know how many backstitches you personally sew to an inch?
Draw yourself a true one inch line on some fabric...
Using two strands of thread, backstitch along the line. When you've stitched your line, count how many backstitches you have made.
I stitch 15 to the inch, but from what I've seen in my years of embroidery, most people don't.
The reason my little shapes, whether they be flowers, birds or bees, look so good in photos is wholly due to the small size of my stitches. But you don't have to stitch 15 to the inch for that result; 12 stitches to the inch also brings a lovely rounded result.
Here's the difference between 15, 12 and 8 stitches to the inch. Do you see that the larger your stitches the more difficult it will be to achieve circular and rounded shapes?
If you're not happy with how the curves look in your stitched projects try practicing smaller stitches.
It makes all the difference, and you'll be surprised at how quickly you'll master those smaller stitches if you...s l o w...d o w n...when you stitch. After all, it's not a race to the finish but a piece of art made by your precious hands.
Another little tip I shall leave you with about backstitch is to be sure and let your stitches share the same entry and exit holes in your fabric, thus avoiding a gap between them.
No gap between the stitches creates a lovely flowing continuous line...
But gaps? The flow is missing...
I hope this tutorial has helped answer a few of those questions many of you have asked?
Don't forget to download the free practice block HERE and let me know if you've improved your backstitch after stitching it.
After all, it's like with me and sewing those pesky little hexies...
only practice will improve my skill.
My completed mini-stitchery now features on the cover of a small notebook. What will you make with yours?
hugs
